An Elevated Take on Canadian Cuisine

Restaurants

February 4, 2025

Words by: Breanna Mroczek

Photography by: Erin Walker

Scott Downey combines international experience and respect for Canadian ingredients at The Butternut Tree

With views of the picturesque Legislature Grounds and High Level Bridge, The Butternut Tree has been a special place for a meal since its opening in 2017. Today, it balances its reputation as a fine-dining destination with a welcoming atmosphere for casual visits. โ€œWeโ€™ve carved out a unique space,โ€ says owner Scott Downey. โ€œYou can come here for a six-course tasting menu or just drop in for wine and charcuterie. Itโ€™s about curating an experience for everyone. Itโ€™s still a special occasion restaurant for many people.โ€

What has always defined The Butternut Tree is Downeyโ€™s commitment to developing an identity for Canadian food. Downey’s professional journey took him to some of the most renowned restaurants around the globe, including (now-closed) Noma in Denmark which profoundly influenced his philosophy.

โ€œAt Noma, I learned to embrace the idea of cooking with what grows around you,โ€ Downey says. โ€œRenรฉ Redzepi [chef and co-owner of Noma] once told me that each ingredient is like a letter in the alphabet. The more letters you have, the richer your stories. That idea has stuck with me. Something that really excited me was the exploration of putting Canadian products first, having something from every province and every territory, representing local farmers and their products that they’re growing. There are lots of restaurants in Canada that have a similar focus, and I think it’s really exciting to have so many places in conversation about what defines Canadian cuisine.โ€

One of the dishes served at The Butternut Tree that Dowey thinks is most emblematic of Canadian cuisine, is a reimagining of beer-can chicken in cabbage form. Cabbage is steamed with beer, roasted, and served with caramelized whey, roasted hazelnuts and ricotta. โ€œIt looks like a nest of noodles but carries the richness and smokiness you wouldnโ€™t expect from a cabbage,โ€ Downey says. โ€œThis dish represents what The Butternut Tree is. It takes something that’s extremely relatable, but presented in a different, high-end way.โ€

Sunday nights at The Butternut Tree offer a unique menu itemโ€”beef Wellington for two. โ€œItโ€™s a more relaxed approach, but executed at the highest level,โ€ Downey explains. โ€œWe wanted to create a Sunday roast concept, elevated with our touch.โ€

Downey credits much of the restaurant’s success to his partnership with co-owner and fiancรฉe, Jillian Fonteyne, who brings her extensive hospitality background to the table. Having managed luxury dining establishments across England and Ireland, Fonteyneโ€™s expertise complements Downeyโ€™s culinary vision. โ€œJillian was the first person I hired when I moved back to Edmonton,โ€ Downey recalls. โ€œEverything clicked from the startโ€”not just in running the restaurant, but in life. Now we have two kids, and itโ€™s a joy to raise them in the city that shaped us.โ€ Even though Downey and Fonteyne have extensive experience internationally, theyโ€™ve chosen to build their lives in Edmonton, with a commitment to its culinary sceneโ€”in 2024, Downey and Fonteyne purchased The Marc, a beloved downtown restaurant. โ€œComing back to Edmonton felt right,โ€ Downey says. โ€œWeโ€™ve travelled and worked in incredible places, but Edmonton is home. The support here has been amazing, and being close to family is invaluable.โ€

Ultimately, The Butternut Tree is more than a restaurantโ€”itโ€™s a testament to Canadaโ€™s culinary identity. โ€œWhen people ask, โ€˜What is Canadian food?โ€™, we want to give them an answer beyond stereotypes like poutine or Caesars,โ€ Downey reflects. โ€œThrough our menu, we hope to start a conversation about the flavours, culture and potential of Canadian cuisine.โ€

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